Stone Island Carlo Rivetti Interview
During Milan’s famed Design Week, we stopped by Stone Island’s “Reflective Research” exhibition to speak with the brand’s owner on the whole lot from working with New York streetwear royalty to educating on the local Polytechnic College.
As one of many clothing industry’s main innovators, Stone Island’s man on the helm, Carlo Rivetti, is aware of a thing or two about fabrics. Approaching the world of trend with the mindset of an industrial designer, Stone Island has rightfully earned its position as streetwear’s technical leader over the course of 30-some-odd years. Stone Island even collaborated with Supreme not as soon as, but twice over the previous 12 months, cementing their place in the current vogue landscape.
Though we not too long ago dove into their massive archive and captured Mr. Rivetti in a recent Avenue Type, we’ve only simply scratched the surface of the heralded Italian label. To find out more, we sat down with Mr. Rivetti at Stone Island’s “Reflective Research” exhibition. Test it out beneath.
Are you able to please introduce your self to our readers
Hi there, my identify is Carlo Rivetti and I am the Inventive Director and President (precisely in that order) at Stone Island. (laughs)
Describe your day-to-day tasks.
I work with the design group. We work altogether both in Milano and in Ravarino where we have the factory. Because I’m the oldest with expertise, I try to provide route to the younger guys in the design staff. The design group is made up of 4 different people; so 4 completely different ages and 4 different nationalities. So I’m very involved to know the opinions and point of views of all of those people. It is my job to try to put these ideas into a Stone Island setting.
In your words, what’s Stone Island
Stone Island is something unique. If you would like single items then each single piece in the collection has a which means. We’re not following the market – we try to do what we really feel is interesting. It’s a type of club between individuals who perceive the product, which isn’t usually comprehensible. You should be curious and perceive that an orange jacket will not be all the time an orange jacket.
What makes one thing difficult to grasp with clothes
Times have changed too much. People are more superficial and don’t have a lot time to invest. Everything turns into so fast, in contrast with the past. We’ve to change the best way of talking to individuals – it’s a must to turn into quickly comprehensible. It’s important to hit and shock folks so they’re desirous about understanding the process and all the things.
Do you suppose the way you reach people has changed By means of social media, for example
Sure, for sure. Additionally because we discuss loads on social media, we try to indicate how we do the garment. We were very efficient in this as a result of we added a brand new age target. We at the moment are speaking to younger individuals and this to me might be an important thing.
Do you attain out to youthful folks in a special means The brand new customers, as an illustration The people that don’t necessarily know the historical past of Stone Island
Not essentially in a unique way. I think young people are very taken with stories. Relating to the younger folks within the Italian market over the last 10 years, they had been very stored by marketed products and now they are much more concerned with real merchandise.
In the past you’ve referred to Stone Island as masculine. What is your thought of masculinity
Masculinity is a man who walks in the road and does not have a selected worth. You see loads of various individuals carrying Stone Island – I see lovely girls wearing Stone Island and I think that essentially the most beautiful girls are those carrying men’s merchandise. I don’t really have a goal of masculinity. I simply feel proud once i see somebody carrying my stuff. We don’t goal our customer.
It appears you approach the design of your product extra in the best way of industrial design somewhat than fashion design
Totally right. Actually, throughout Vogue Week we didn’t do a present or catwalk. We didn’t do something. We just opened an area and we had been there explaining the product. I feel rather more confident with industrial design than the style system.
Why did you decide to exhibit your reflective know-how for Salone del Cellular
That is a call that was taken by my wife – she can be part of the design group. She needed to do this exhibition. In a phrase, it’s a product of the thoughts of the design team. I never enter into this kind of resolution as a result of I’m all for doing product so with this kind of communication I depart it to my spouse, Sabina.
When you’re doing analysis on new fabrics and new methods, are there every other industries that you take inspiration from
Plenty of design teams from different sectors come into ours showrooms and clearly I am very involved in understanding it more. We say that is expertise however this is barely expertise in textile. You will have expertise in different industries: cars, footwear. For instance, I saw these sunglasses and then needed to learn how they work. So we can see these technologies in numerous sectors and take from them and they’ll take from us. It’s a kind of trade of experience. If you wish to be progressive you’ve to remain awake and alert to the world.
I see lovely women carrying Stone Island and I think that essentially the most lovely ladies are the ones sporting men’s products
Were you referring to the Recon Jet sunglasses
Yes. Beautiful design, superb promoting. So it’s this type of thing. How stone island glass field jacket can I work with these individuals and the forms of applied sciences they are utilizing Can I exploit such a expertise in a garment I believe the factor with innovation is one thing it’s good to work on so I always tell my workforce, “don’t look again, all the time look in front. As a result of the long run is in the future, not the past.”
In a earlier interview you mentioned that a big revolution for you guys happened in 2003 if you discovered tips on how to dye polyester at 130 levels Celsius. Why was that such an vital innovation
As a result of before we may solely dye the pure fiber – there is a big quantity of fabric in fiber however once we also started to dye manmade fiber, we opened a completely new subject of analysis – polyester, nylon, non-woven fabrics – so once more, we begin from zero, with the experience of pure fiber and have a totally new area of expertise. I’m additionally attracted by the very fact there are new fibers and how they’ll react to the dying. Also the dying is altering as a result of we are working at a decrease temperature, new nano-supplies – both in fabrics and in dye.
What about these sort of hype technologies like 3D printing. Is that one thing that interests you
Yes, now we have began researching. It’s very good because we stay in an fascinating technological area. Now we have a number of very small corporations which might be very flexible so we’re beginning to work with them to see how we can match this technique into the garment.
A colleague of mine wrote a chunk on future vogue technologies like self-healing fabric. Have you heard of this
Yes. I name these intelligent fibers or fabrics. They have an extended historical past. I’ve never seen them utilized but suppose they will be obtainable quickly. Anyway, we already discuss straightforward-care, anti-stain, that kind of factor. Can you imagine I saw the first anti-stain fabric within the early ’60s So it’s there however technology is all the time evolving. We already have self-urgent garments and this wash-and-wear stuff. When you learn about this stuff you can transfer with the innovations.
Are you still a Professor at the Polytechnic College
Yes, in fact.
What do you educate there
I’m instructing advertising – style advertising and marketing – and the course focuses on studying prototypes of garments. I take advantage of Stone Island as an example but try to not influence the scholars so much. Since eighty% or so are womenswear, we even have wedding products.
Is there a certain model you all the time discuss with reference to advertising and marketing
I have a lot of respect for Paul Smith. And then in fact I completely respect Yohji Yamamoto and the Japanese because they’ve a extremely incredible method to their job – they really do their artwork in a unique manner. They don’t have to be business – they grow to be industrial and could make their dream a reality.
Have you found anything of specific be aware through your students
Yes. I remember a few years ago there was a pupil who was learning a garment for a chef – the thought was do a jacket that doesn’t scent. She found a filter in Japan that retains the smell. However then you take the jacket and shake it out and the smell goes away. However of course, it’s a giant Japanese firm and they don’t care about a pupil from Polytechnic. So I said that Stone Island might have an interest and I used to be very interested. So as a sort of filter, I discovered a brand new materials, she makes a fantastic garment and that i get a new expertise. You know, working with young individuals, even within the university – it retains you younger.
What about the most recent Supreme collaboration How did that come about
They approached us. To start with I used to be undecided if we might work together however then I flew to New York and met the group. You recognize, by no means put two guys with blue eyes in the identical room. (laughs) They’ll kill each other or they will work very nicely collectively. Thankfully, we have been the latter. James was glad, I used to be joyful. I realized loads. To start with it was not straightforward to know one another but now we are working very effectively and I am very satisfied with the consequence. I think each entities were versatile to respect the DNA of every brand and to make one thing that was superb.
What did you study from working with them
I learned to be very precise. I learned not to stop till you acquire the proper end result. I discovered the right way to launch a product on the internet and understand the expectations of people engaged on paper, and perceive the best way we do the garment is not so precise, so we should slightly change how we do the garment in order to realize the perfection Supreme had been anticipating.
I totally respect Yohji Yamamoto and the Japanese as a result of they’ve a extremely unbelievable method to their job – they really do their artwork in a unique manner.
Early you had been speaking about approaching clothing design in an industrial way. Are there any other merchandise that you’d wish to explore
No, simply clothing. I think it’s essential to do the job that you’ll be able to do.
There are loads other technical brands now who’re doing this “direct to consumer” mannequin. Do you regulate these sorts of brands
I all the time look to all of the brands which can be around. I feel you may always learn from everybody – from active sport to skiing and browsing. I believe it began many years in the past. I also look on the army. Once i travel the world, I attempt to see all the several types of jackets that exist. Now the costumer can choose what they need and use it throughout the board. So a technical jacket can go right into a theatre and a motorbike jacket can go on high of a mountain. It’s about how the buyer desires to use it.
Do you think that is trend-primarily based or does it mirror present lifestyles
I think it is more of a pattern. It is one thing that people will continue to do, and in someway, we’re serving to this trend because we’re doing garments that are performing extra and are more multipurpose.
Check out our visit to the brand’s archive right here and see our latest Street Fashion with Mr. Rivetti right here.