Stone Island’s Heat Reactive Jacket
Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) was an Italian garment engineer and style designer most well-known because the founding father of the apparel brands Stone Island and C.P. Firm. Osti’s merchandise have been a mix of his personal improvements and design ideas he got from learning army clothes, work-, and sportswear.
1 Early years
5 Product innovations 5.1 Four-process printing on fabric (1970)
5.2 Garment dyeing (1979)
5.Three Brushed wool (1987)
5.Four Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
5.5 Ice jacket (1991)
5.6 Micro (1992)
5.7 Thermojoint (1993)
5.Eight Technowool (1995)
Massimo Osti was born and raised in Bologna, Italy. He became a graphic designer and worked in the advertising business. His profession in the style industry started in the early 1970s, when he designed a T-shirt collection that includes placed prints. He was the first to use new techniques just like the 4-colour process and silkscreen that are used for producing T-shirt. Following the success of this first T-shirt assortment, he accepted the supply to design a complete Men’s assortment and became an fairness accomplice in the corporate he would name ‘Chester Perry’ (later renamed the ‘C.P. Company’).
Throughout this interval, Osti laid the foundations for a artistic philosophy totally based mostly on experimentation. The first innovation he would be accountable for within the clothing industry was garment dyeing, a process that completely revolutionized the field. It was based upon the concept of different supplies in finished garments reacting in another way to the identical dye bath. Osti discovered that garment dyeing creates fascinating tone-on-tone results. This particular dyeing technique turned typical for Osti’s C.P. Company. In 1981, he launched “Boneville”, a new brand alongside the prevailing CP Company and CP Firm Baby collections.
Ongoing analysis on pedicure island stone harbor nj ending strategies and supplies led to one more clothing line in 1982: Stone Island. The primary collection was made solely from a revolutionary new fabric that impressed from the tarps utilized by truck drivers. The ‘used’ look of this highly resistant, two-tone, reversible fabric was obtained by stone washing. This new collection was so successful that it bought out at each location within 10 days.
In 1984, Osti relinquished his shares of CP Firm to GFT, however stayed on as president. He and his crew devoted themselves to product development and communication methods for the corporate. In 1985, he grew to become the editor of CP Magazine, an additional-massive format catalog/journal that was offered at newspaper stands. It featured pictures of each garment in the CP Firm collections and visualized the C.P. lifestyle perfectly. A circulation of 40,000 copies per assortment proved that this unusual advertising software was certainly efficient. It started a development that may later be adopted by many different companies in the trade.
1987 was an vital 12 months in Osti’s profession. He invented and presented Rubber Flax and Rubber Wool – linen and wool with a thin, rubber coating. The rubber made the supplies waterproof, improved their resistance and added a completely new appear and feel to the garments. In the same 12 months Osti experimented with brushed combed wool for the first time. Today all mills use this procedure for processing woolen textiles, the identical process Osti invented in 1987.
The 12 months additionally noticed the beginning of the shade altering Ice Jacket. In collaboration with ITS, Osti employed state-of-the-artwork technological research to create this new fabric which modified shade by temperature variations. That very same 12 months, his fixed dedication to experimentation earned Massimo Osti an invite to symbolize the Italian clothes business at an event commemorating the 750th anniversary of Berlin’s founding, the 150th anniversary of textile manufacturing and his own fifteenth year within the business. For the occasion, an exhibit was held inside the Reichstag constructing in Berlin.
In 1988, Massimo Osti’s designs developed a brand new technique of communication with the general public by means of the CP Company sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race. The company additionally showed its assist of the Rainforest Foundation, the foundation spearheaded by Sting and Raoni, chief of the Kayapo tribe in Amazonia, whose purpose was to lift worldwide consciousness of deforestation in the Amazon Rainforest.
1991 marked the opening of a CP retailer in New York’s historic Flatiron Building, plus the launch of one more iconic garment within the Stone Island line: the Reflective Jacket. This jacket was made from an progressive materials, which was the fruit of technological analysis conducted in Japan. The material mixed waterproof fabric with a really thin layer of glass microspheres, which mirrored even the weakest gentle sources with astonishing effectiveness.
In 1993, a partnership with Allegri gave rise to Left Hand. This new brand was characterized by one other exclusive materials, a non-woven fabric made from pressed polyester and nylon fibers which, like felt, may very well be used with uncooked edge stitching. The next 12 months, Osti founded Massimo Osti Manufacturing, an organization that will reap the advantages of the experience and successes accrued from 20 years’ price of formal and technical improvements. In 1995, the ST 95 line was launched and in 1996, Osti started a collaboration with Superga, which consisted in designing a set of picture-defining garments.
Just two years later in 1998, a brand new firm was founded to supply and distribute the OM Venture brand, the collaboration with the Frattini Group. This new line of clothing would also be characterized by means of modern fabrics:
– Electric-j – a highly resistant material made from polyester and copper fibers
– Cool Cotton – whose pure look is derived from its cotton component whereas its other element
– Cool max – a hollow fiber that absorbs bodily moisture and wicks it outwards
– Mag Defender – a canvas fabricated from polyester and carbon fibers whose extremely resistant weave shields its wearer from magnetic fields
– Steel – an “city armor” that includes a nylon canvas which is woven with twisted cotton and stainless steel, making it highly resistant to cuts and tears.
In 1999, Massimo Osti began the collaboration with Dockers Europe to design a brand new line of technical pants referred to as Equipment for Legs. Of the technical materials used in this collection, a particular blend of Kevlar stood out in particular; its elevated softness and performance made it acceptable to its utility in garment production.
Among Osti’s final tasks was the ICD line. Created in 2000 due to a collaboration with Levi’s, it offered an unlimited array of high efficiency technical outerwear. This collection was then supplemented by the ICD+ line which, because of an settlement with Philips, featured outwear garments which came geared up with a cellular phone, mp3 participant, and accompanying headphones and microphone which have been all wired to the garment itself. It was the world’s first business example of wearable technology.
Massimo Osti died in 2005 and his legacy lives on at the moment by means of Ed Lehan. Also the Massimo Osti Archive, a textile archive which incorporates 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from approximately 300 textile mills and garment finishing corporations from all over the world.
4-process printing on fabric (1970)
A Bologna-based firm commissioned Massimo Osti to design printed T-shirts, one thing he had never carried out earlier than. On the age of 25, Osti was in close contact with the social and inventive movements of the time and profoundly conscious of the modifications going down in society. On the time of his first forays into the world of vogue, Osti’s background in promoting led him to make use of his graphics know-how as a starting point for tackling his first challenges. “For these T-shirts I used processes for printing on paper to get the finished result, strategies like silkscreen, placed prints, 4-process printing, photocopy, etc. It was the primary time something like that was accomplished in Italy. I keep in mind that I needed to silkscreen the first T-shirts myself earlier than convincing the technician to do them”
Garment dyeing (1979)
“I found that two completely different supplies absorbed and reacted in a different way to the dye when dyed concurrently, thereby creating fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ results.” This is the basis of garment dyeing, a process that revolutionized all the business at the time, each because of the unusual look it produced and because of the numerous lower in prices it represented.
Fundamental characteristics: every garment is dyed, as a substitute of the materials they had been made from. Fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ results, and simplification of dyeing course of.
Brushed wool (1987)
Osti took this particular course of, which was initially used on cotton, and experimented with it on wool until he refined the procedure by way of research and tailored it specifically to this noble fiber, revolutionizing the business.
Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
These supplies, created by Osti, grew to become very fashionable within the textile industry. They took noble and conventional fabrics like linen and wool and granted them a new look and texture, allowing them to drape and fall in another way. The particular rubber coating not solely enhanced their pure traits, but additionally grants increased functionality, akin to resistance to water and allows them to stay adaptable to patterns.
Predominant traits: classic materials seemed renewed and responded in a brand new way to put on; additionally they turned extra weatherproof.
Ice jacket (1991)
A jacket fabricated from a revolutionary materials that adjustments coloration with temperature variations resulting from its special chemical composition. The “Ice Jacket” can also be extremely waterproof and windproof.
Principal traits: jacket modifications shade by temperature variation. *e.g, pink to gray)
Key-item: First ICE Jacket 1992
This fabric was first introduced in the LEFT HAND collection and is fabricated from pressed microfiber and nylon fibers. The pressing is a standard technique, originally used to make paper. This process grants the fabric an unmistakable “deerskin” hand and excellent breath ability.
Foremost characteristics: pure deerskin look, but hotter feel.
This material was also used in the LEFT HAND assortment. Its principal characteristics are total resistance to water and put on and up to 80% safety from nuclear radiation.
Used for the primary time in the F/W 1996 collection by “Massimo Osti Manufacturing,” this combination of wool and nylon jersey is put on-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and sturdiness of wool.
Chester Perry (1971-77)
C.P. Baby (1978-ninety three)
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