Stone Island: How The Brand Has Developed – Woodhouse Clothes
Stone Island’s brand ethos has been set in stone since the 1980s, however the label’s dedication to research implies that their collection is all the time contemporary and exciting. With a devoted world following and a again catalogue of 40,000 unique garments, Stone Island is in a league of its personal.
When CEO, Carlo Rivetti, was requested why Stone Island’s brand has remained so sturdy he stated:
“Stone Island has always remained true to itself, without concessions. And so we have been in a position to rejuvenate our goal market of customers; we attain out each to our historical customers, those who’ve faithfully stayed with us for thirty years, but also to the youthful crowd, to the new generations of at this time.”
While different brands have branched out to include different types or expanded into unrelated markets, Stone Island has remained focused, with just the label’s persevering with research into fabrics and dyes pushing the model ahead.
Stone Island Culture
Ice Jacket Wool Blend in Thermo-delicate Fabric
If you look back at the last thirty years, the model started with jackets made from thick truck tarpaulin and continued to create heat-sensitive fabrics and Kevlar designs. It can be laborious to predict what comes next and that’s what makes the brand so exciting to observe.
The strength of the Stone Island, alongside the undeniable type of their clothes, has created a cult following – including celebrities such as Noel Gallagher, Peter Hook and Chris Lowe. The brand has additionally been related to soccer fans – and often soccer hooliganism – however the label has been fast to dissociate itself from the latter.
Inside Stone Island
As CEO Carlo Rivetti provides fans a video tour round Stone Island HQ, he describes his dyeing facility as a ‘kitchen’. Jackets are ‘cooked’ in 90 – 140 degrees and ‘recipes’ are adopted to create each shade of colour.
Nevertheless, to most individuals, Stone Island’s dyeing facility looks extra like a chemistry lab. With row upon row of bottles, there’s a splash of just about each colour imaginable, and with impressive equipment and weighty files of formulas, the ‘Colour Lab’ is evidently a spot for experimentation.
And with so many colours packed into one room, Carlo Rivetti even claims it’s the closest thing to a renaissance painter’s workshop in the 21st century.
Texture and color are the starting point for every jacket. From there, the designers experiment to create a design that works. Some of their dyeing strategies could cause up to 50% shrinkage, so getting the design right is an advanced process.
Every garment is made from a selection of various fabrics, all of which react to dyeing in a unique method – either in how they absorb color or shrink throughout the process. Each jacket is like a journey of scientific discovery – and with their archive of 20,000 garments on site, you possibly can stroll via the historical past of their experimentation.
Over Thirty Years of Design
In 1982, Stone Island was launched by Massimo Osti, with their Tela Stella vary. The brand’s identify got here from the pages of Joseph Conrad’s novels – amidst thousands of phrases, ‘stone’ and ‘island’ were the mostly occurring, and so the model was born.
The primary collection was the result of research right into a thick truck tarpaulin, which was resin-handled to be purple on one aspect and blue on the other.
1983 – 1986
Carlo Rivetti joined Stone Island in 1983, already an enthusiastic fan of the model. By 1984, the collection had advanced to incorporate jumpers, trousers, t-shirts and shirts.
It was additionally in 1984 that a second signature Stone Island fabric was introduced, Raso Gommato – a cotton satin of army origin, with polyurethane coating.
1987 – 1988
Through analysis into heat-sealed PVC, Stone Island developed Glazed Silk Mild, which is shiny trilobite nylon coated in PVC. The impact was a thick and glazed look.
1989 – 1991
In 1989, Stone Island launched the bottom-breaking Ice Jacket. With the event of a heat-delicate fabric, Stone Island created a jacket which modified color with the temperature.
From yellow to blue and from inexperienced to white, the Ice Jacket was a really futuristic concept. Stone Island developed the design further to create patterned jackets which misplaced their pattern in the cold, becoming icy white with freezing temperatures.
Next, Stone Island developed a highly reflective Japanese fabric, which achieved its luminescent glow by way of a coating of thousands of micro glass spheres. Inspired by work safety jackets, this collection was extraordinarily eye-catching and was even able to replicate light from very weak sources.
1993 – 1996
This was a time of great change for Stone Island – Massimo Osti left the label and in his place, Englishman, Paul Harvey, joined the staff and pushed the research ahead.
With an injection of latest concepts, the next few years saw an enormous variety of revolutionary fabrics getting into the color Lab. The first was Components Steel, a nylon canvas bonded to a polyurethane movie.
In depth analysis also created Oltre, a high-quality nylon fabric with an ultra-shiny coating.
1997 – 1998
The research continued at a relentless pace, and in 1997, Stone Island designers applied a Reverse Color Course of method on the Raso Gommato fabric. First printed in black, the fabric then faded using a corrosion method to be later over-dyed.
Nylana, a thick nylon canvas used to line tanks, additionally grew to become a part of the collection during these years.
1999 – 2001
On the turn of the millennium, the Stone Island design group had been incredibly busy. Launching an enormous quantity of new fabrics and designs in just two years, including the Pure Metallic Shell Silver and Pure Metal Shell Bronze (as shown above). These parkas have been created with either one hundred% stainless steel or one hundred% bronze metallic mesh, bonded to fabric.
Stone Island’s designers subsequent moved onto a fabric which is five times stronger than the identical weight in steel: Kevlar. As pictured above, Stone Island discovered a strategy to dye this seemingly unattainable material through including a nylon mesh and a polyurethane coating.
Initially designed for use on aeroplane circuit boards, Stone Island started to make use of silver spray on their assortment of tremendous polyester jackets, adding a vacuum seal of 100% stainless seal.
The model additionally launched their Ventile range, utilizing a military textile which was one hundred% cotton and developed for British fighter pilot’s overalls in the Second World Battle.
In 2002, the vary continued to expand, with jackets engineered to look flat with a collection of folds and seams including element.
One other success story from this 12 months was the light Jacket. Continued analysis perfected the design – a white jacket with fibre optic mesh inserts that gentle up with blue mild.
The design team additionally experimented with numerous layers of meshes, which revealed the interior building of the jacket.
2003 – 2005
Stone Island perfected their Compact Procedure to create extraordinarily dense supplies, which are boiled at 130 levels after which shrink by as much as 50%.
Mussoal Gommata was also launched, developed by laminating extremely-light cotton muslin to a matte polyurethane film.
2006 – 2007
The David TC Fabric was introduced, consisting of polyester, polyamide and Japanese microfiber, which was then dyed below strain at 130 degrees.
Developing their portfolio of reflective jackets, Stone Island designed the Antiquated Reflective.
Paul Harvey left Stone Island in 2008 and Carlo Rivetti stepped into his footwear as Creative Director. And in the same 12 months, the brand’s affiliation with Aitor Throup was formed, creating the Stone Island Shadow Collection.
2009 – 2011
Creating on their earlier heat-reactive Ice Jacket, Stone Island created a camouflage jacket which loses its pattern in the chilly.
The team additionally developed a new textile: Waxed Ice, which was cotton moleskin containing thermo-delicate quartz and graphite.
2012 – 2013
For the S/S season in 2012, Stone Island launched the Prismatic Muslin, a light-weight cotton muslin, which was handled with colored resins before the fabric was laminated to supply a prism-impact polyurethane movie. The material can then be double-dyed to create a variety of vibrant colours.
Subsequent, Stone Island created the Hydrophobic Treatment, a course of which creates a garment that’s highly water-repellent brown bag clothing stone island and environmentally friendly.
2012 marked the 30th anniversary of the brand and celebrated with STONEISLAND30, a serious exhibition at Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Alongside the exhibition, three symbolic garments were created to replicate the history of Stone Island, including a re-edition of Tela Stella.
Thirty years’ of research and 40,000 garments later, their current A/W assortment displays this wealthy history of design. Browse the Stone Island A/W rangeand to see what the model has to supply this 12 months.
Garment Dyed Crinkle Reps NY
What’s next for the Brand
With a relentless drive in direction of creating new colours and materials, Stone Island is a model at all times capable of surprise. When asked what the future holds, Carlo Rivetti said:
“We get impressed by folks, architecture and design. At current we’re at present learning some materials used within the car business. Through the Olympics, the outfits the athletes put on are very technical, which can be inspirational.